Menu
Materials and Construction FAQs
Thatched roofs are one of the oldest known roofing types, dating back over 10,000 years, and are
still built on homes today. In fact, the UK alone has an estimated 60,000 thatched properties,
reflecting a renewed appreciation for thatch’s sustainability and excellent insulation qualities.
Modern homeowners continue to cherish thatched roofs not only for their storybook aesthetics, but
also for the practical benefits they offer in energy efficiency and environmental friendliness.
What materials are used to make thatched roofs?
Thatched roofs can be made from a variety of dry vegetation, but in the UK there are a few primary materials used by master thatchers today. The choice of material can depend on local tradition, availability, and the look/longevity desired.
The main thatching materials include:
• Water Reed (Norfolk Reed): Water reed (Phragmites australis) is a wetland grass with long, strong hollow stems. It has been used for centuries, especially in areas like East Anglia where reed beds grow naturally. Water reed is prized for its durability, a well-laid water reed thatch can last around 25 to 40 years before needing replacement, given proper maintenance. It tends to give a neat, crisp appearance to the roof, with sharp lines. In fact, in many European countries (e.g. the Netherlands and Germany), water reed is almost exclusively used for thatching. UK thatchers also use a lot of water reed today, though much of it is imported (from Turkey, Eastern Europe, China, South Africa, etc.) due to limited domestic supply. If you hear the term “Continental reed” or “Norfolk reed,” it usually refers to this material. It’s generally considered the most durable thatch material under British conditions.
• Combed Wheat Reed (Wheat Straw): Despite the name “reed,” combed wheat reed is actually straw from cereal crops (wheat straw) that’s been specially prepared. After harvest, the straw is combed (brushed) to remove the grain heads and leaves, leaving long clean straw stems. This was traditionally done in regions like Devon (hence it’s sometimes called “Devon reed”). Combed wheat reed is often used for ridges and can also thatch entire roofs. It provides a smooth, even finish somewhat similar in look to water reed when applied, because all the straw butts (ends) are aligned and visible on the surface. Its lifespan is slightly shorter than water reed, typically 25 to 35 years for the main roof coat. Many thatched roofs in the south and west of England use combed wheat straw. It’s a good all-around material and historically very common on English cottages.
• Long Straw: Long straw is another form of wheat straw that differs in preparation from combed wheat reed. Instead of combing, the straw is threshed (a beating process) which knocks off the grain but also leaves some bend and leaf in the straw. The resulting thatching straw is a bit softer and more tangled. When applied, long straw thatch has a looser, shaggy look compared to the crisp lines of water reed or combed wheat. You often see long straw on traditional cottages in counties like Suffolk, Norfolk, and the Midlands. It used to be the most widespread thatch material in the UK. Long straw roofs are usually slightly thicker and have distinctive spar patterns on the surface (thatchers often press decorative lattice patterns into the cross spar fixings on long straw roofs). Long straw is generally a bit less durable, with a lifespan around 15 to 25 years on the roof. It also requires more skilled work to apply (and more material per roof), which is why it’s somewhat less popular for new thatching jobs today. However, it’s crucial for maintaining authenticity on historic buildings that originally used long straw.
• Heather: In some regions, heather has historically been used as a thatch material (for example, in parts of Scotland and on some medieval roofs). Bundles of heather stalks can form a roof thatch, often in combination with other materials. Heather is very twiggy and robust when packed tightly. It’s not common nowadays, partly because harvesting heather of the right length (3–4 feet long) is laborious. But a well-done heather thatch can be hard-wearing (lasting 25–40 years) and gives a dark, coarse texture. You might encounter heather thatch on some National Trust properties or historic cottages in upland areas. It’s more of a specialist material today.
• Water Reed (Norfolk Reed): Water reed (Phragmites australis) is a wetland grass with long, strong hollow stems. It has been used for centuries, especially in areas like East Anglia where reed beds grow naturally. Water reed is prized for its durability, a well-laid water reed thatch can last around 25 to 40 years before needing replacement, given proper maintenance. It tends to give a neat, crisp appearance to the roof, with sharp lines. In fact, in many European countries (e.g. the Netherlands and Germany), water reed is almost exclusively used for thatching. UK thatchers also use a lot of water reed today, though much of it is imported (from Turkey, Eastern Europe, China, South Africa, etc.) due to limited domestic supply. If you hear the term “Continental reed” or “Norfolk reed,” it usually refers to this material. It’s generally considered the most durable thatch material under British conditions.
• Combed Wheat Reed (Wheat Straw): Despite the name “reed,” combed wheat reed is actually straw from cereal crops (wheat straw) that’s been specially prepared. After harvest, the straw is combed (brushed) to remove the grain heads and leaves, leaving long clean straw stems. This was traditionally done in regions like Devon (hence it’s sometimes called “Devon reed”). Combed wheat reed is often used for ridges and can also thatch entire roofs. It provides a smooth, even finish somewhat similar in look to water reed when applied, because all the straw butts (ends) are aligned and visible on the surface. Its lifespan is slightly shorter than water reed, typically 25 to 35 years for the main roof coat. Many thatched roofs in the south and west of England use combed wheat straw. It’s a good all-around material and historically very common on English cottages.
• Long Straw: Long straw is another form of wheat straw that differs in preparation from combed wheat reed. Instead of combing, the straw is threshed (a beating process) which knocks off the grain but also leaves some bend and leaf in the straw. The resulting thatching straw is a bit softer and more tangled. When applied, long straw thatch has a looser, shaggy look compared to the crisp lines of water reed or combed wheat. You often see long straw on traditional cottages in counties like Suffolk, Norfolk, and the Midlands. It used to be the most widespread thatch material in the UK. Long straw roofs are usually slightly thicker and have distinctive spar patterns on the surface (thatchers often press decorative lattice patterns into the cross spar fixings on long straw roofs). Long straw is generally a bit less durable, with a lifespan around 15 to 25 years on the roof. It also requires more skilled work to apply (and more material per roof), which is why it’s somewhat less popular for new thatching jobs today. However, it’s crucial for maintaining authenticity on historic buildings that originally used long straw.
• Heather: In some regions, heather has historically been used as a thatch material (for example, in parts of Scotland and on some medieval roofs). Bundles of heather stalks can form a roof thatch, often in combination with other materials. Heather is very twiggy and robust when packed tightly. It’s not common nowadays, partly because harvesting heather of the right length (3–4 feet long) is laborious. But a well-done heather thatch can be hard-wearing (lasting 25–40 years) and gives a dark, coarse texture. You might encounter heather thatch on some National Trust properties or historic cottages in upland areas. It’s more of a specialist material today.
• Sedge and Rushes: Sedge is a wetland plant (with triangular stems) that used to be employed for thatching in marshy localities. Today, sedge is primarily used for ridging rather than whole roofs. That is, the top ridge of many thatched roofs (especially in Norfolk/Suffolk) is made of sedge grass to cap off the ridge line. Sedge has very sharp edges (thatchers must wear gloves handling it). A sedge ridge might last ~8–10 years. Bulrushes or other rushes were also sometimes used for simple shelters and occasionally mixed into roofs, but you won’t often see an entire roof of rushes now except perhaps on some traditional structures or experimental archaeology builds.
• Turf (and Straw Underlayers): In northern England and Scotland, historically a layer of turf (yes, strips of earth with grass) was sometimes laid on the roof boards first, and then thatch put on top. The turf acted as an insulating, damp-resistant base, kind of like an old-fashioned underlay. The thatch (often heather or straw) would be fixed into the turf. This method isn’t really used in modern thatching except in restoration projects, but you might hear of it in context of vernacular buildings. Turf was also used alone on roofs in some places (the sod roof concept), but that’s extremely rare in UK now.
• Turf (and Straw Underlayers): In northern England and Scotland, historically a layer of turf (yes, strips of earth with grass) was sometimes laid on the roof boards first, and then thatch put on top. The turf acted as an insulating, damp-resistant base, kind of like an old-fashioned underlay. The thatch (often heather or straw) would be fixed into the turf. This method isn’t really used in modern thatching except in restoration projects, but you might hear of it in context of vernacular buildings. Turf was also used alone on roofs in some places (the sod roof concept), but that’s extremely rare in UK now.
In summary, wheat straw and water reed are the dominant materials for UK thatched roofs today. Each has its own characteristics: water reed is very durable and neat; wheat straw (combed or long) gives a more traditional soft look. Other plant materials like heather or sedge play niche roles or survive in specific local traditions. Regardless of material, all thatch performs the same basic function, forming a thick, protective, and insulating layer over the roof. The materials are all naturally water-shedding when properly installed. It’s worth noting that all these thatching materials are natural and regionally sourced (or historically were). If you’re considering a thatched roof, a thatcher might recommend what material suits your area and roof design best. Simply Thatch, for instance, works with straw or reed depending on the project, we source quality long-straw wheat for traditional projects and water reed for those needing extra longevity or a crisper look.
What is the difference between water reed, wheat reed, and long straw thatch?
The three terms water reed, wheat reed (combed wheat straw), and long straw refer to different thatching materials and methods, and they result in slightly different roof appearances and lifespans.
Here’s a comparison of their differences:
• Water Reed: This is an actual reed (a type of rush) that grows in wetlands. Water reed’s defining feature is its hard, hollow stem, it’s a very robust material. When used in thatching, water reed is applied in what’s often called a “one coat” technique (the reed bundles are laid in a single layer to the full thickness). Roofs thatched in water reed tend to have straight, crisp lines and a fairly even surface texture. You’ll often notice water reed roofs because you can see the cut ends of the reeds all aligned, giving a precise look. They also have sharper edges at the eaves and gables compared to straw. Water reed is generally the longest-lasting thatch material, in England it can last around 40 years with good care, sometimes more in ideal conditions. Historically, water reed was not used everywhere (it was common in East Anglia, rare elsewhere), but today it’s widely chosen for its longevity. One thing to note: water reed thatch is a bit stiffer and less flexible than straw thatch, which means it doesn’t easily bend around tight curves; it suits roofs with fairly simple geometric shapes or gentle curves.
• Water Reed: This is an actual reed (a type of rush) that grows in wetlands. Water reed’s defining feature is its hard, hollow stem, it’s a very robust material. When used in thatching, water reed is applied in what’s often called a “one coat” technique (the reed bundles are laid in a single layer to the full thickness). Roofs thatched in water reed tend to have straight, crisp lines and a fairly even surface texture. You’ll often notice water reed roofs because you can see the cut ends of the reeds all aligned, giving a precise look. They also have sharper edges at the eaves and gables compared to straw. Water reed is generally the longest-lasting thatch material, in England it can last around 40 years with good care, sometimes more in ideal conditions. Historically, water reed was not used everywhere (it was common in East Anglia, rare elsewhere), but today it’s widely chosen for its longevity. One thing to note: water reed thatch is a bit stiffer and less flexible than straw thatch, which means it doesn’t easily bend around tight curves; it suits roofs with fairly simple geometric shapes or gentle curves.
In summary, water reed = durability and neatness. It gives a roof a slightly “formal” thatched look, think of the immaculately thatched cottages with clean ridges.
• Combed Wheat Reed (a.k.a. Wheat Straw): Combed wheat reed is actually wheat straw prepared to resemble reed. The straw is combed straight and the thatcher lays it in a similar fashion to reed, with all the butt ends out. The difference here is that it’s a cereal straw (softer than water reed). A combed wheat reed roof often has a softer, more rounded look than water reed. The edges might not be as razor-sharp, and the surface might undulate a tiny bit giving it a traditional charm. Wheat reed is usually a one-coat application nowadays as well, though historically it could be two coats. In terms of longevity, combed wheat straw roofs last somewhere in the 25–35 year range typically. They can approach water reed longevity but generally a bit less. Another big difference is regional tradition: in many parts of England (Devon, Home Counties, etc.), wheat straw was the norm and even today local conservation officers prefer that material to be used on historic buildings instead of importing water reed. From a performance view, wheat straw thatch is slightly more porous than water reed and may not last quite as long in very damp conditions, but it insulates just as well and can be repaired or patched more easily (straw thatch can be patched with new straw, whereas reed is usually replaced in sections rather than patched). So, wheat reed vs water reed often comes
down to aesthetic preference and tradition vs raw lifespan. Wheat straw thatch has a warm,
“friendly” cottage look that some people absolutely love.
down to aesthetic preference and tradition vs raw lifespan. Wheat straw thatch has a warm,
“friendly” cottage look that some people absolutely love.
• Long Straw: Long straw is also a wheat straw, but it’s laid differently from combed wheat reed. When thatching with long straw, the thatcher typically draws handfuls of straw (yealms) and lays them on with the butt ends and tips all mixed in the thickness of the thatch. Then it’s secured with hazel spars. This method creates a thatch where you don’t see only cut ends on the surface; instead, some of the straw’s ears might be visible, and the roof has a thicker, shaggy texture. The outline of a long straw roof is more rounded and overhanging at the eaves, with a soft roll along the roof edges. Often there is an attractive spar-work pattern on the ridge and sometimes across the surface in chevron or diamond shapes (these are decorative fixings unique to long straw work). Long straw roofs have a traditional, rustic appearance, they look like the roof is “hairy” or fluffy compared to the sleekness of reed. In terms of difference, long straw is usually less compact than reed thatch; as a result, it typically has a shorter lifespan (maybe 15–25 years) before needing major refurbishment. It’s also more labour-intensive to install, as the thatcher effectively thatches the roof twice (often a base coat of straw is put down and then a final coat on top, especially on historic long straw roofs). Because of the labour and shorter life, long straw has fallen out of favour for new thatching, but it is essential for authentically maintaining many old cottages. In sum, the difference with long straw is in appearance (shaggy, with decorative spar work) and a bit in performance (needs rethatching sooner, and usually requires a steeper pitch to last well).
To visualise: if you stood in front of three thatched cottages, one with water reed, one with combed wheat, one with long straw, you’d notice the water reed roof looks the tidiest and most precise, the combed wheat reed roof looks similar but a touch softer in contour, and the long straw roof looks the most “old-world” with deep overhangs and a fluffier surface. Each material has its heritage: water reed in East Anglia, combed wheat in the southwest and many other parts, long straw in the Midlands and beyond. Also, certain cottage styles simply historically had one or the other. For example, an 18th-century cottage in Norfolk might have traditionally been long straw thatched; changing it to water reed might alter its character (and could require permission if listed).
In practical terms, modern thatchers often give homeowners a choice between reed or wheat straw if appropriate. Water reed will cost more upfront but last longer. Wheat straw (combed) gives a classic look and is sometimes preferred for aesthetic or local reasons. Long straw will be used if the goal is to preserve historic authenticity or match regional style (or if a client specifically wants that style). At Simply Thatch, for example, we offer all three types of thatching service (we have specialists for straw and for reed). Our advice is usually guided by the building’s needs and the client’s wishes, whether you want the crisp lines of water reed or the softer charm of straw. Each material, applied by skilled hands, results in a beautiful roof, just with slightly different character and maintenance cycles.
How is a thatched roof built or installed?
Building a thatched roof is a meticulous, hands-on process that relies on skilled craftsmanship. It’s quite different from installing a standard tile roof. Here’s an overview of how thatched roofs are installed in the UK, step by step:
1. Roof Structure Preparation: The process begins with the roof structure itself. Thatch needs a solid base to fix onto. Typically, this base is a series of wooden roof battens (laths) nailed across the rafters, spaced a few inches apart. On a new build, the timbers are prepared to accommodate the thickness of thatch (for example, dormer windows are set lower to allow for the thatch depth around them). The roof is usually pitched quite steep (45° or more) to help the thatch shed water. No roofing felt or membrane is used under a true thatch, the thatch must breathe. For safety, sometimes fire-resistant boards or membranes might be laid under the battens (as per building regs), but often it’s just open rafters and battens. The thatcher will also set up scaffolding around the building for safe access.
2. Laying the Thatch Bundles (Coatwork): Thatching is done from the eaves upward. The thatcher takes bundles of the thatch material (straw or reed, prepared in uniform bundles called “yelms” in the case of straw) and lays them on the roof. Starting at the bottom edge (eave), the first course of bundles is fixed to the battens. Traditionally, hazel wood spikes (called spars or “spelks”) are twisted and driven through the thatch into the battens to hold the bundles in place. Nowadays, stainless steel rods or wires might also be used in combination, but many thatchers still use the old spar hooking technique in the main. Each bundle is laid with the butt ends outward (these are the thicker ends of straw/reed) and the tips pointing toward the ridge. The next course of bundles is laid overlapping the lower course, much like shingles, so that only the butt ends of the lower course are exposed. Layer by layer, the thatcher works upward, fixing each bundle tightly. This overlapping is what makes the roof shed water, rain flows down over the thatch rather than soaking through. Thatch is laid to a substantial thickness (often 12 inches or more of material thickness) to ensure waterproofing. As the thatcher adds layers, they periodically beat and dress the thatch down with a leggett (a flat paddle-like tool) to ensure it’s compacted and neatly aligned. This core part of the roof is called the “coatwork”.
3. Fixing and Compacting: As the thatch goes on, the thatcher continuously fixes it and compresses it. They use tools like a thatching rake to pull and even out the surface, and a leggett to pat and shape it. Each bundle is secured firmly, in addition to the spars, sometimes horizontal sways (rods) and twine are used to bind courses together for extra security. A well-thatched roof is very tight; the bundles are bound so that only about 15% of water ever penetrates beyond the outer inch of thatch. The internal layers remain dry, and any slight moisture that does get in will evaporate out. Thatching is often compared to tiling with plants, each bundle is like an overlapping “tile” of straw. Thatchers will also trim the edges with shears to keep everything uniform. Eaves are cut straight (or with a slight decorative curve, depending on style), and any excess length of straw is clipped off. During this stage, features like valleys or dormer cheeks are carefully woven and mitred so they are waterproof. The thatcher pays special attention to seams and junctions, making sure no gaps exist. The motto often cited is “thatch thick, fix tight”, meaning a thick thatch and secure fixings are key to longevity.
4. Building the Ridge: Once the main roof reaches the top, the thatcher installs the ridge. The ridge is essentially a top layer that caps off the meeting point of the two sides of the roof. There are two main ridge styles (discussed more below): flush ridge (which lies flat and blends into the roof) or block ridge (which stands proud as a block of thatch at the top). Either way, the ridge is often made with a different material, commonly wheat straw is used for ridging even on a reed roof, because straw is easier to work into decorative patterns. The thatcher will lay the ridge thatch perpendicular or at an angle to the main coat and secure it heavily (since the ridge sees the most weather). They trim it into shape and often cut a pattern or design into the ridge surface (for a block ridge, this could be a scallop or diamond pattern; for a flush ridge, they might create a nice lattice spar work). If the customer wants a decorative finial (straw animal or ornament) on the roof, the ridge is when it’s installed, usually tied into the ridge fixings or built as part of the ridge coat. Ridges are typically secured with an extra layer of netting or wire beneath the thatch to ensure they stay put against high winds, and often you’ll see them tied down with crossed spar work along the top.
5. Finishing Touches: With the ridge on, the bulk of the thatch work is done. The thatcher will now dress up and tidy the roof. This involves clipping stray straw ends, creating a nice even surface by brushing, and making sure the shape is perfect. They will check all the fixings are hidden just under the surface and everything is tightly
bound. In many cases, a wire netting is stretched over the entire roof (especially on ridges or on roofs in bird-prone areas) to deter birds from pulling at the thatch or rodents from climbing in. Netting is lightweight and eventually blends in visually. The thatcher also cleans up the site (thatching can be messy with lots of cut-offs falling around). What’s left is a beautiful new thatched roof, usually a warm yellow-gold in colour when new (for straw) or a more silver-gold (for water reed). Over months and years, it will weather to a mellow greyish tone. A new thatch will often have extra thickness to allow for some settling and compaction that occurs naturally. As a final step, sometimes a fire-retardant spray is applied to the surface for extra protection (if the owner requests).
Throughout this process, craft and experience are key. A master thatcher judges by eye the evenness and makes sure the thatch is tightly packed (loosely packed thatch would allow wind-driven rain to penetrate, not good!). Also, during construction, things like chimney flashings are handled: a lead flashing would be in place around the chimney, and the thatch is neatly worked up to it to prevent leaks. Thatchers also ensure no gaps around roof penetrations where water could get in. The result of these stages is a roof that, while made of plant material, functions much like any roof, shedding rain efficiently. A correctly built thatch roof will be completely waterproof and snug. For example, only the outer few centimetres get wet in a rainstorm, and that soon dries once the sun or breeze returns. Underneath, inside the roof, it remains dry. The thickness and the layering are what make thatch work.
In modern practice, some aspects can differ: occasionally, thatchers might use screw fixings with wires for additional hold, especially at eaves or barges. But the traditional method described remains fundamentally the same across centuries. It’s a very manual job, one reason it’s more costly, but it’s also why thatch has such handcrafted appeal. If you imagine the process from start to finish: bare timbers → layers of bundles → a sculpted thatch form, it’s quite magical. Simply Thatch’s team follows these time-honoured steps, combined with a few modern best practices (like fire barriers when needed), to ensure each roof we thatch is both beautiful and built to last. We often document the process for curious clients, since watching a roof take shape from straw is fascinating!
What roof pitch or design is required for a thatched roof?
Because thatch is a natural material, certain design considerations are important to ensure the roof performs well. Roof pitch is especially crucial. In the UK, a thatched roof should ideally have a steep pitch, at least 45°, and often in the range of 50–55° is preferred. A steep pitch allows rainwater to run off quickly before it has a chance to soak in. If the roof is too shallow, water can penetrate deeper into the thatch and lead to rapid decay or leaks. In fact, a saying goes that “the steeper the thatch, the longer it will last.” Traditionally, many thatched cottages have very steep roofs (some older ones are 60° or more near the ridge). Modern guidelines typically recommend 45° as the minimum viable pitch for thatch. Along with pitch, the overall design of the roof should avoid complex junctions where possible. Thatch prefers simple shapes because every valley or dormer is an area that will receive extra wear (due to water runoff concentrating or leaves accumulating). If you have multiple intersecting roof sections (like a T-shaped house, many dormer windows, etc.), those valleys will need very expert thatching and still may not last as long as the main slopes. Generally, a thatched roof will last longer on a simple rectangular roof than on a very cut-up design. That’s not to say you can’t thatch a complex roof, you certainly can, but owners should expect potentially more maintenance in the tricky areas. For example, in the South West of England, some thatched roofs historically were built at slightly lower pitch and very ornate shapes, and it’s noted that those tend to have shorter lifespans for the thatch. The simpler and steeper, the better for longevity.
Eaves and overhangs in thatch design are typically generous. The thatch usually overhangs the wall by about 50–60cm (to throw water off). When designing a roof for thatch (or converting a roof to thatch), architects will ensure the rafters extend sufficiently to allow this overhang. Additionally, you want to avoid flat sections, for instance, the apex of a hip roof should ideally be a sharp point rather than a flattened top, otherwise water can sit. Thatched roofs often have charming details like swept valleys or rounded hips, which are fine as long as they’re designed with water shedding in mind. Another design requirement: allow for the thickness of the thatch at edges. Thatch is thick (typically 30-40cm thick at the ridge and maybe 25cm at the eaves). If you have dormer windows, their sides must account for this thickness; otherwise, the thatch could obscure the window or crowd it. Good thatch design sets dormer window frames proud of the roof line appropriately, and often dormers on thatch have little roofs of their own (thatch eyebrows or gablets). Similarly, chimneys should be tall enough relative to the thatch so that sparks exit well above the roof surface (usually chimneys are required to project at least 1.8m above thatch). Often, older thatched houses have very tall, thin chimneys for this reason.
From a structural perspective, the roof must be able to carry the thatch, but as noted thatch is not extremely heavy, lighter than tile. The structure does, however, need to accommodate
people walking on it during rethatching (thatchers often work off the roof itself on roof
ladders). So it should be solid. One key design rule in UK building regs is about fire: if a thatched roof is being built close to a boundary, regulations may require a fireproof barrier under the thatch or a greater distance.
people walking on it during rethatching (thatchers often work off the roof itself on roof
ladders). So it should be solid. One key design rule in UK building regs is about fire: if a thatched roof is being built close to a boundary, regulations may require a fireproof barrier under the thatch or a greater distance.
Typically, new thatched roofs should be at least 6 metres from any adjacent property boundary to reduce fire spread risk. If that isn’t possible, architects might implement something called the “Dorset model” or “Thatch-Safe” which are fireproof boarding systems under the thatch to contain fire. So, in terms of planning your build, factor in that distance if applicable (this is more for new constructions; existing thatched cottages in villages obviously often don’t have this spacing, and instead owners rely on fire barriers and good chimney upkeep). Ventilation is another consideration: a thatched roof, being thick, needs to breathe. The loft space in a thatched home is usually well ventilated (air permeates the thatch). You avoid any impermeable membranes that could trap moisture.
In summary, the design requirements for a successful thatched roof are:
• Steep pitch (minimum ~45°) for rapid rain runoff.
• Simple roof geometry (continuous slopes, minimal valleys) for longevity.
• Allowance for thickness around edges (dormers, eaves, etc., should accommodate ~1ft of thatch).
• Proper chimney height and lining (to safely vent above thatch and reduce fire risk).
• Consideration of fire regulations (distance to boundaries or use of fire-resistant barriers) in new builds.
• Adequate structural support and ventilation (though not overly heavy, the roof must hold the thatch and allow it to dry from beneath).
• Steep pitch (minimum ~45°) for rapid rain runoff.
• Simple roof geometry (continuous slopes, minimal valleys) for longevity.
• Allowance for thickness around edges (dormers, eaves, etc., should accommodate ~1ft of thatch).
• Proper chimney height and lining (to safely vent above thatch and reduce fire risk).
• Consideration of fire regulations (distance to boundaries or use of fire-resistant barriers) in new builds.
• Adequate structural support and ventilation (though not overly heavy, the roof must hold the thatch and allow it to dry from beneath).
If you meet these design criteria, a thatched roof will function well and last its intended lifespan. If you’re converting a roof to thatch that wasn’t originally thatched, often
adjustments can be made (for instance, increasing the pitch or altering the roof shape) to suit
the thatch. It’s always recommended to involve an experienced thatcher in the design phase, at Simply Thatch, we frequently consult with homeowners or architects planning a thatched roof, ensuring the design will be thatch-friendly. This proactive approach helps avoid any
pitfalls and makes sure the finished roof will not only look stunning but also perform reliably for many years.
adjustments can be made (for instance, increasing the pitch or altering the roof shape) to suit
the thatch. It’s always recommended to involve an experienced thatcher in the design phase, at Simply Thatch, we frequently consult with homeowners or architects planning a thatched roof, ensuring the design will be thatch-friendly. This proactive approach helps avoid any
pitfalls and makes sure the finished roof will not only look stunning but also perform reliably for many years.
What thatch styles or ridge designs can I choose for my roof?
When it comes to the style of thatch and ridge design, homeowners have several options to customise the look of their thatched roof.
The “style” of a thatched roof can refer to the overall finish (which is influenced by the material and method used) and especially the ridge pattern and detailing. In the UK, ridges are a particularly decorative element on thatched roofs, and there are two primary ridge styles:
• Flush Ridge (Wrap-Over Ridge): A flush ridge lies flush (level) with the main coat of the roof. In this style, the top of the roof is thatched seamlessly so that the ridge doesn’t stick up as a separate block. The thatcher will fold the top courses of thatch over the apex or use long
straw to cover it, creating a smooth continuous surface over the top of the roof. Flush ridges are then usually decorated with a spar pattern, criss-crossed hazel spars pressed into the ridge to form designs (zig-zags, diamonds, etc.). This pattern isn’t just decorative; it helps secure the ridge thatch. A flush ridge gives a traditional, understated look. It was the most common ridge type on historic thatched buildings in many regions (for instance, on long straw roofs in the East of England, flush ridges were the norm). They tend to look more rounded and blended. From the ground, a flush ridge will show off the sparwork pattern and often a line of liggers (twisted spars) along the apex. Many heritage enthusiasts prefer flush ridges for their authenticity. One advantage is they use slightly less material and labour than block ridges, so they can be a bit cheaper and quicker to do. A well-made flush ridge should last as long as a block ridge (~10–15 years). If you like a simpler, clean silhouette for your roof, a flush ridge is a great choice.
straw to cover it, creating a smooth continuous surface over the top of the roof. Flush ridges are then usually decorated with a spar pattern, criss-crossed hazel spars pressed into the ridge to form designs (zig-zags, diamonds, etc.). This pattern isn’t just decorative; it helps secure the ridge thatch. A flush ridge gives a traditional, understated look. It was the most common ridge type on historic thatched buildings in many regions (for instance, on long straw roofs in the East of England, flush ridges were the norm). They tend to look more rounded and blended. From the ground, a flush ridge will show off the sparwork pattern and often a line of liggers (twisted spars) along the apex. Many heritage enthusiasts prefer flush ridges for their authenticity. One advantage is they use slightly less material and labour than block ridges, so they can be a bit cheaper and quicker to do. A well-made flush ridge should last as long as a block ridge (~10–15 years). If you like a simpler, clean silhouette for your roof, a flush ridge is a great choice.
• Block Ridge (Raised Ridge): A block ridge is so named because it looks like a raised block of thatch sitting on the roof crest. To form a block ridge, the thatcher lays an extra layer of thatch (often wheat straw, even on reed roofs) along the top of the roof, usually about 4 inches thick, and shapes it into a rectangular “block” running the length of the ridge. This ridge can then be cut into ornamental patterns along its sides and top. Common patterns include scallops, diamonds, waves, arrow-heads, initials, or other bespoke designs. Essentially, the thatcher uses a sharp knife or shears to trim the block’s edges, creating an up-and-down profile that casts shadows and makes the pattern visible. An ornamental block ridge is often what people think of with the prettiest chocolate-box cottages, you might see ridges with a repeating diamond motif, for example. Alternatively, a block ridge can be straight-cut, meaning it has a smooth straight edge (no pattern) for a more subtle look. Block ridges are especially popular in the south of England these days, and they make the roof look a bit “fancier”. From a functional perspective, a block ridge adds extra thickness at the top, which can help with longevity (more thatch to erode before problems occur). However, because it’s raised, it’s more exposed to wind and weather, so craftsmanship and secure fixing are key. Many thatchers will bind a block ridge with wire for strength (hidden in the ridge). If your property is in an area where block ridges are traditional, you might lean that way. Or if you simply love the look of a patterned ridge, a block ridge is the way to achieve it. Keep in mind, on a listed building, if it had a flush ridge historically, you might need consent to switch to a block ridge (since it changes the silhouette). Beyond ridge style, other thatch style choices include the overall finish on the eaves and gables. For example, rolled eaves vs. flush eaves, some thatchers shape the bottom edge of the thatch into a gentle roll, which is common in some regions.
• Styled barges (gable ends): sometimes the thatch at the gable end is cut straight, or it can be wrapped around in a “Norfolk eyebrow” style. These are subtle design choices your thatcher can offer. Additionally, homeowners often ask about decorative features that can be added:
-
- You can request thatch patterns on the roof’s surface. Thatchers can create patterns like a lattice or star by varying how the surface is raked or how fixings are placed. These are usually done on long straw roofs where spar patterns show nicely.
-
- Many people love adding a straw animal finial on the ridge (e.g. a straw owl, fox, pheasant, etc.). This doesn’t affect the roof function, it’s purely an ornament. It sits at the apex, generally at the gable end, tied into the ridge. Regional styles also come into play. For instance, in Devon, thatched roofs traditionally have flush ridges with a simple cross pattern and something called “netting coats” on the ridge. In the East Midlands, block ridges with very intricate patterns became popular in the 20th century. In parts of Scotland, heather ridges or sod ridges were traditional (a sod ridge is a layer of grass turf on the ridge which then grows, quite rare now). Most modern thatchers will stick to straw ridges unless replicating a historic method.
So, when choosing a style, you would typically decide on:
• The thatching material (reed vs straw), which influences look (as discussed earlier).
• The ridge type (flush vs block).
• Any pattern or embellishment on the ridge (straight cut vs patterned, and what pattern).
• Any finials or decorative touches (straw animals, initials, motifs).
• The thatching material (reed vs straw), which influences look (as discussed earlier).
• The ridge type (flush vs block).
• Any pattern or embellishment on the ridge (straight cut vs patterned, and what pattern).
• Any finials or decorative touches (straw animals, initials, motifs).
For example, you might say: “I’d like a water reed roof with a block ridge in a traditional scalloped pattern, and could you put a fox straw sculpture on the end?”, and the thatcher would work to make that happen. Or you might prefer: “I want it very traditional, long straw with a flush ridge and no animals, just the old style cross spar pattern.”
At Simply Thatch, we collaborate with our clients on these choices. Our master thatchers are skilled in crafting both flush and block ridges, and can even show you photos of different ridge designs to help you choose. We often encourage clients to consider what’s common in their area or what suits the building’s character. But ultimately, as long as it’s structurally sound, the aesthetic flourishes are up to you. Thatch is quite an art form, so don’t hesitate to express your creative preference, whether it’s a timeless, modest ridge or an elaborate showpiece, a good thatcher can deliver it.
In short, you have a good range of style options with thatch. This ability to customise the “look” (in a way far beyond what you could do with say, concrete tiles) is one of the joys of owning a thatched roof. Each one has personality. Choose a style that you’ll love to look at every day, and you’ll enjoy your roof not just for the shelter it provides but also for its beauty.
Can I have decorative features (like straw animals or patterns) on a thatched roof?
Yes! One of the delightful aspects of thatched roofs is the ability to add decorative features such as straw animals, shapes, or intricate patterns. These custom touches don’t just make your roof unique, they also celebrate the thatcher’s craft.
Here’s how you can adorn a thatched roof:
- Ornamental Straw Animals (Thatch Finials): Many thatched roofs in the UK sport little straw sculptures perched on the ridge. These are called thatch finials, essentially ornamental figures made of thatch. Common ones include straw owls, pheasants, foxes, cats, ducks, hares, or even mythical creatures. Traditionally, creating a finial was a way for the thatcher to “sign” his work with a bit of flair, and it often showcased his skill. Nowadays, customers usually request them (they’ve become quite popular again). A thatcher with the right expertise will hand-craft the animal from tightly bound straw and secure it to the ridge. They’re charming conversation pieces, for example, a fox finial might grin down from one end of your roof, or you might have two straw ducks “kissing” on the ridge. Not only do they look cute, but as mentioned, some folks believe having an owl or hawk shape might discourage real birds from landing on the roof (acting like a scarecrow). Finials are long-lasting; because they are very densely packed and often coated with a preservative, they can last many years atop the roof. Eventually they might need replacing when the ridge is replaced, but they generally hold up well. At Simply Thatch, we create thatched animal finials to suit any request, our artisans have crafted everything from dogs and cats to birds of prey as finishing touches. If you have an idea (say a straw dragon or a particular logo or emblem), it’s often possible to do if the thatcher is up for the creative challenge. These features make your roof truly one-of-a-kind.
- Decorative Patterns in the Thatch: Beyond animals, you can also have patterns worked into the thatch. One way is via the ridge pattern on a block ridge (like scallops, diamonds, initials, a date, etc.). For example, some people ask to have the year the roof was thatched cut into the ridge or their initials, it can be done by carefully trimming the ridge thatch. On the main roof surface, patterns are less common but possible on long straw roofs by arranging the fixing spars in certain ways. You might see crossed patterns or a herringbone effect done on purpose. These patterns catch the light and add an extra level of detail. They’re essentially cosmetic and do not affect how the roof functions.
- Other Ornaments: Occasionally, thatchers have fun with unique ornaments, like a thatched straw bonnet over a dormer window, or a mini thatched bird house built into the apex. There’s a lot of room for creativity. In some areas, it was traditional to thatch a wheat sheaf shape or a cone on the ridge ends as a finial (instead of an animal). Some Scottish roofs had crosses at the gable ends made of thatch. These can all be done if you desire a particular motif.
From a permission standpoint, adding decorative features is usually not an issue (even on listed buildings, a removable ornament is not typically a problem, since it doesn’t permanently alter the structure). It’s always good to double-check if your home is very strictly regulated, but generally, finials are seen as temporary/artistic.
One thing to keep in mind: any decorative feature should be installed by the thatcher so it doesn’t compromise the roof. A professional will secure a straw animal in a way that doesn’t invite leaks (usually by mounting it on a metal spike or tying it into the sparwork). Don’t attempt to nail or screw anything into a thatch yourself, that could create a path for water. Always let the thatcher incorporate it. Cost-wise, decorative extras will add a bit to the bill (they take time to craft), but many homeowners feel it’s well worth it for the added character. For instance, commissioning a straw owl might add a few hours of work for the thatcher but leaves you with a delightful feature to enjoy for years. Simply Thatch’s team, for example, takes pride in these artistic touches, our master thatchers can craft essentially any straw finial you want. As noted on our website, “no matter the kind of straw finial you’re looking for, our thatching artisans will be able to craft it for you,” be it dogs, cats, pheasants, etc., all expertly made to adorn your roof. We love when clients get creative, we’ve even had themed requests (like a fox to celebrate a local sports team whose mascot is a fox, etc.). We’re happy to discuss ideas and we’ll let you know what’s feasible. Since the finials are made of the same material as the roof, they age and weather along with
the roof, blending in while still standing out in form.
In summary, you absolutely can personalise a thatched roof with decorative features. It’s one of the joys of owning one. Whether it’s a whimsical straw animal keeping watch from your rooftop or an elegant pattern gracing your ridge, these details bring an extra smile and charm to your home. They celebrate the fact that a thatched roof isn’t just a mass-produced item, it’s individually crafted. If you have something in mind, a particular animal or design, just talk to your thatcher about it. Most likely, they’ll be excited to make it happen (thatchers often enjoy the chance to be creative). At Simply Thatch, we certainly do: our master thatchers have crafted numerous custom finials over the years and love a challenge. So whether it’s a wise old owl, a proud pheasant, or even your initials in straw, decorative touches can be added to make your thatched roof truly your own. It’s the finishing flourish on an already beautiful work of roofing art.
Feel free to reach out to us for more information or to brainstorm what kind of decorative features would suit your thatched property, we’re always happy to help make your thatch dreams a reality!